Sunday, October 19, 2014

East Timor Medical Elective - Week 3 (Part 1 / 6)

Week 3 (15/9/14 – 19/9/14)

BEGGING & POVERTY IN EAST TIMOR
I've been surprised at the seemingly lack of begging so far (in spite of the rampant poverty), but finally encountered my first case on Monday this week.

I was walking home from BPC and bought a Magnum ice-cream. After finishing it, I held the wrapper in my hand, intending to discard it once I went back to the Motel. Along the way, a boy snatched the wrapper from me, put it in a pre-dug hole, then held his hand out for what I believed to be money. I didn't like the fact that he was “littering”, and that I wanted to discard the wrapper myself, so I ignored him.

I felt a bit guilty afterwards. According to the Lonely Planet Phrasebook for East Timor, begging is considered unacceptable here, but then again he did help me, albeit without my request. I asked an East Timorese person for what they would've done (ie the “correct” response), and she said that she wouldn't have given him money either coz she didn't ask for him to get rid of it.
Still, the sequence of events stuck in my mind. I had spare money available, but there were also principles that may need to be followed. If I simply give money just for the sake of supporting someone, will this perpetuate the cycle of poverty? Would giving money to him be a mini representation of the dependency of East Timor on foreign aid? Am I over-analyzing this? I think what saddened me at the time was that he was “begging”, when in Australia he would've been at school, with the parent/guardian receiving a certain amount of welfare. Maybe that's why in Australia, there seems to be an undercurrent of “Anti-Intellectualism” in schools and even (especially public ones) public discourse, because you can still be financially well-off (or at least not starve to death) even if you do badly at school or drop out early, ie the incentives of academic achievement have been significantly reduced. Public schooling is technically free in East Timor, but the poverty in many families pressures children to drop out of school early to assist with their parents in housework and income-generating activities.

I feel that a lot of Australians are very fortunate (if not “spoiled”) and take many things for granted (including public health care), because they've had so many things “too good, for too long”. But with the predicted economic crash in the coming years, their collective values may change...

Re: Poverty in East Timor, I got really disheartened after speaking to a Timorese Dr. about corruption. She claims that the oil money (which makes up ~90% of the GDP) is nearly all gone due to corruption, and that the newspaper reports / research papers about remaining oil reserves are largely inaccurate. It's so sad that a country that had the money to improve itself (at least in public infrastructure like Brunei) was unable to do so “on-time”. When the oil money is 100% gone, I suspect the country will be screwed totally and remain a 3rd-World Banana Republic, unless some extremely generous organizations will help foot the bill in the country's development.

How much more impact will all the NGOs have if this country becomes a complete “basket-case”, when the government runs out of funding? Different countries (especially America and Australia) are trying to help East Timor, but disturbingly in a sense it also lightly mimics the turf wars of the colonial era, with European powers all trying to have a slice of their pie in a new land...

This reminded me of when I ate out with the other foreigners. Never in my life, have I felt so guilty/uncomfortable in the 3 times I ate at a “Western-style” restaurant coz of the exorbitant price of the meals ($US 8+) relative to the average East Timorese income (<$US 10/day). I was at a bar, eating pasta, while the East Timorese waiters were serving us, knowing inside that these luxuries were for the most part beyond their reach, and only for viewing.

The NGO involvement just looks fragmented at the moment. I think there needs to be cooperation with the local government to help integrate their collective efforts, and prioritize local expenditure, especially towards developing local infrastructure. Sadly, my impression from browsing the official government notices in the newspaper is that they (government) have their priorities in questionable places. Apparently hundreds of thousands of dollars was spent on renovating government buildings, when it could've been spent on improving sanitation (eg septic tanks), increasing access to potable water in villages (or Dili itself), or purchasing medications and vaccines which are in short supply in public hospitals. It disgusted me. So while East Timor is now an independent country, later on it may be the case that it'll be totally dependent on other countries for its sustenance...

It worries me that given the gravity of East Timor's situation, that the economy is insufficiently diversified. The majority of food products etc are Indonesian. There's East Timorese coffee, but the relative yields are quite low due to inefficient agricultural practices, and very hilly terrain. I'm not aware of many Secondary Industries in East Timor.

There are tons of tiny shops selling the same every-day products, everywhere. I feel there's not enough diversity at the community level. Then again, most people don't have the capital to set up a more complicated business to begin with, especially when they don't have regular internet access. And customers don't have the money to buy more complex items and services. A lot of the tiny shops, and also taxi drivers don't have enough small change, which makes financial transactions difficult, a bit of a Catch-22.

For example, there's a lady living with her sister and her 2 children, with a cart selling food and drinks, with her shack behind it. I take pity on her, and buy 2 bottles of water from her for the day, paying $1.50. It was depressing to see that she didn't even have enough change for a $5 note, so I was nice and paid her in exact small change.

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